How To Use A Figure 8 Descender With Ears

The figure 8 belay device, also known as the figure 8 descender and figure 8 rappel device, is a metallic slice shaped every bit 8 with i pocket-sized terminate and 1 small end. The figure 8 rappel device is the tool to proceed yous safe and in control of the speed while you are rappelling.

When you buy a figure viii descender, it usually won't come with instructions. We volition be discussing how to utilise a figure 8 rappel device in this article. It is considered one of the best rope rappelling descenders.

Remember that the effigy eight (figure 8) belay device is unlike from the figure eight knot, and the figure 8 device is one of the essential rappelling gear kit pieces of equipment to carry with you.

Something to keep in listen is that there are a few dissimilar configurations, or in other words, ways of lacing the rope through the figure viii descender and means of using it too. Which technique y'all apply can depend on your skill level, size and weight, the rope type, conditions, and the device itself.

Today we want to talk about how to use a figure 8 rappel device and how to apply the different types of configurations. Remember, whichever technique you use, test it out in a controlled environment first; y'all don't want to do this for the first time while on a rock face.

How to Rappel with a Figure 8 Device?

Hither is a step-past-step guide on how to rappel using a figure 8 rappel device.

Feed the rope via the anchors, and ensure the harness and anchors are properly prepare, with the carabiner connected through the harness loops. The gate of the carabiner should be facing up.
With the rope on your correct, grab a portion of information technology and feed it via the larger section of the figure viii rappel device from the bottom. Haul the loop through towards the neck of the effigy eight belay device. If y'all're double-strand rappelling, loop both rope strands through the large hole and beyond the cervix.
Connect the figure 8 small hole via the carabiner, so lock the carabiner.
Double-check everything, ensuring that y'all've locked the carabiner via the bottom hole and the ropes are sourced from the anchor via the larger hole, across the neck, and out through the tiptop hole.
Adjust the effigy 8 descender such that it doesn't lean on the carabiner'due south gate to ensure the arrangement doesn't fail.
To stop, concord the right side of your rope using your right mitt and booty information technology effectually your dorsum. Your other mitt tin lie on the rope over the figure 8 belay device if you similar.
Recline into the rappel, and lower hastily by sliding your left hand (brake hand) abroad from the trunk. Haul the rope on your back to halt.

What is the Rappel Device Used for?

The figure 8 rappel device is used every bit a rappelling or belaying device. Likewise known as an 8, the effigy 8 descender is utilized with a locking carabiner and climbing harness to belay a climber or when lowering yourself when rappelling.

High friction rope position — A figure-eight descender

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What are the Advantages of a Figure 8 Device?

The figure 8 belay device comes with several advantages, which nosotros take listed and explained below.

Practicality

Figure viii descenders are relatively piece of cake to use, and there is close to no room for mistakes. You simply have to ensure that the rope moves via the smaller hole beyond the neck.

These devices don't lock similarly to tubular devices such as the ATC devices, since the rope constantly moves through the device's neck without moving up the carabiner and dorsum.

Moreover, figure-eight descenders give a polish rappelling feel and don't tend to be as bumpy compared to other rappel devices. The user-friendliness, precisely setting upwardly, makes them relatively common among ice climbers and mountaineers since they can't take off their gloves to deal with the rope in cold surroundings.

Rut depletion

Regarding heat dissipation, figure viii rappelling devices do it better than ATCs, thanks to their increased surface area. In that location are fewer chances of you ending upwardly with an imprint of the 8-figure burn on your arm subsequently an extended rappel than an ATC, as they tend to heat up more than.

Affordability

A figure viii rappel device is relatively inexpensive, by and large from $10 to $15, and it will serve yous for a long time. Yous tin can easily alter the speed and friction; hence people of all sizes with diverse luggage tin comfortably utilize information technology.

Another upside in terms of price is that rope will merely move through and wear out the device. On the other hand, the rope moves through the carabiner and tuber when utilizing an ATC, gradually wearing out both metals.

Besides, some deep canyons filled with mud and sand can come up shut to wearing out the figure eight belay device within a day; hence it's convenient to have an affordable product.

Friction

Compared to an ATC, a effigy 8 descender has reduced friction; hence it'due south more than effortless for a young person or kid to lower. You can make various adjustments to set it up and substantially touch on the lowering process with this device.

Versatility

Whether you're rappelling using the double-strand technique or accept a narrow rope, the figure 8 rappelling device volition come in handy. All rope types are ideally compatible with a figure 8 device.

Again, you can use it for belaying; however, you should non set it up the aforementioned as when rappelling. The popular use for effigy 8 when canyoneering is to lock one terminate of the rope to an anchor by threading the device into an 8-block. This way, you can hands make a retrievable rappel without needing to double upwards the climbing rope.

Passability

When using a figure 8 belay device, information technology's rare to find moss or mud clogging your lowering mechanism when canyoneering, which is quite common when using a tubular device. The spacious hole at the tiptop of the figure 8 device, the unrestricted rappelling experience, and less friction let muddied rappelling rope and tiny knots motion through effortlessly.

Quick-release

When lowering yourself into deep water, y'all can adjust the effigy viii descender, reducing the chances of dropping your equipment within the h2o. Therefore, you volition have a rappelling device and won't go suspended mid-rappel.

Setting up a rappel with figure 8 device

What are the Disadvantages of a Effigy eight Device?

The effigy eight belay device has several disadvantages, which we have listed and explained below.

Take a chance

While this device has been on the climbing scene for a long, some accidents take been fatal and others non-so-fatal. Some fatalities take happened considering of cross-loading. Typically, this occurs when figure 8's strength breaks through the locking carabiner. This forcefulness exerts force per unit area on the pins, resulting in them popping out.

The carabiner seldom bends when the small-scale hole is continued through it. Or the locking sleeve clutches onto the figure 8 rappel device.

The more pressure level y'all apply, the device becomes a lever leading to the forcefulness popping upward the gate. If information technology pops out outward, information technology's known as cross-loading, though if it happens inwards, it'due south referred to as inward loading.

Climbing belay

While we accept mentioned that you tin can use a figure 8 rappelling device, it doesn't necessarily hateful yous should use it. Today, there are many belay-specific devices, like the GriGri or ATC.

Yet, if you happen to forget your belay device, you can still apply the effigy 8 descender, but brand certain you know how to fix it upward properly. While it is prophylactic, it'southward not quite convenient. Yous crave utilizing a sling or cord to forestall the device from releasing the rope.

Less friction

The figure eight device enerates less friction on the climbing rope than an ATC. This translates to lowering more swiftly and having less control. This is vital to remember, peculiarly for beginner rappelers. Figure 8s would exist much handier when rappelling and if the rappelling ropes are thick.

Rope twist

The other disadvantage of the effigy 8 belay device is that it launches numerous twists into the mechanism. While this won't harm the rope's cadre, it can accidentally necktie knots throughout the rope and mess up the system. You lot can avoid this by setting up the effigy eight sport fashion (you tin read more about this rappelling configuration below).

Bad reputation

Figure viii rappelling devices don't have a expert reputation among climbers. They're primarily seen as erstwhile schoolhouse and thus not used equally much. People accept at present embraced the new devices.

What are the Different Types of Effigy 8 Rappel Setups?

There are different ways you tin can ready upwards your rappel, depending on the situation, and they include standard effigy 8 rappel configuration, figure 8 sport manner, figure 8 belay mode, figure eight figure-4-wrap, figure 8 rescue mode, figure eight canyon mode, and figure 8 machine-stop style.

Standard Effigy 8 Rappel Device (Descender) Configuration

This is the most standard figure 8 descender configuration out there, the ane that tends to be the easiest to chief, the virtually reliable, and nigh commonly used. In order to get your rope correctly attached, first, remove the device from the carabiner.

Second, pass the bight of rope through the big loop of the figure 8 descender, and now pull the bight of rope over the modest pigsty of the device and allow information technology to locate within the shank of the descender as the bight is pulled tight.

To finish it off, clip the carabiner dorsum onto the pocket-sized hole of the effigy viii descender. This is a great configuration considering you can use your hand, the i holding the free brake, to control the tension and therefore the speed of your descent.

Apply your main brake paw to grip the restriction rope, and so utilise your other paw to grip that same office of the rope directly below.

When you become to descend, make certain to hold the rope tight and never concur it loosely, especially to the betoken where the rope easily passes through your hands and through the figure 8 device, every bit this is also known as free falling.

Exist sure to utilize rappelling gloves when using one of these devices, as yous can withal get rope burn or get your fingers jammed.

Always exist certain to have things slowly, use a good anchor that is solid and can hold your weight, and e'er go along your feet at shoulder width, with the knees bent. Rappelling can be dangerous, and neglecting any condom tips tin result in disaster.

Figure 8 Descender and Sport Mode Configuration

This setup comes in handy as a top-rope climbing belay choice. While there is substantially less friction via the device, you can still manage to lower yourself because in that location is additional friction via the connectors at the top.

This less friction facilitates effortless rope take-in as the elevation-belayed individual climbs. This setup should be avoided, especially when belaying a lead climber since in that location is non sufficient friction in case the lead belayer falls.

That said, there are occasions where reduced friction is ideal when lowering off, particularly with light climbers. Climbers weighing not more than than forty kg volition easily loosen the rope via the basic configuration on overhang descent, though this might not exist the case with other descents.

Figure 8 Belay Mode Configuration

This mode is the only one that allows a climber to belay another climber using a figure 8 belay device. If adequately executed, this setup should offering plenty friction to concur the leader if they fall and allow the belayer to feed the rope easily. Descending using this setup needs ample do since the rope doesn't easily feed through the device when laden.

Effigy 8 Descender with a Effigy 4 Wrap

The standard configuration may non be for everybody. If y'all are heavier, let's say over 200 pounds, the standard configuration might not provide you with enough tension, friction, and overall braking ability. In other words, your weight will pull that rope right through the descender and leave you rocketing towards the ground.

In this case, you want to kickoff off with the standard configuration, and then add an actress stride where the brake rope is as well passed through the carabiner. This volition provide a heavier person with extra friction and braking power to control the speed of the descent.

Figure 8 Descender and Rescue Style

If yous happen to have to rescue somebody, if you lot are hauling lots of gear, or if y'all are just a heavier person, you lot can besides try the rescue configuration for rappelling.

This configuration is like to the standard configuration simply takes it one stride further as the rope is passed through the big pigsty twice, thus finer going through information technology twice. It just helps to provide a lot more friction and volition deadening down the descent substantially.

Figure eight Rappel Device and Coulee Manner

While the effigy viii rappel device comes in handy in many situations, it might exist challenging to connect and remove in cold, dark, and wet surroundings such as canyons. Indeed, this is an advanced method though you have the option to use it without opening the primary carabiner.

Information technology is achievable, though; the climbing rope can accidentally come out of the eight if you halt and unweight the mechanism. Similarly, this technique does sacrifice ease of use and security.

Figure viii Auto-Stop Manner

This is a elementary yet effective technique. It is similar to coulee mode though in that location's an intentional twist within the rope before feeding it via the smaller pigsty. This tweak causes the loaded part of the rope to pinch the brake rope when handled incorrectly.

You can make this twist in ii ways, and but ane way volition ensure yous execute this way properly. To free the twist, you need to cautiously haul down the rope on the smaller ring of the device, similar to a hand working the brake handle on automatic locking devices.

Figure 8 descenders come up in unlike shapes, and every ane of them will offer a different experience when setting up the motorcar-stop manner. For case, the shorter figure 8 rappel devices will be more than difficult to unlock because the operative lever is brusk.

Much like canyon mode, this technique is maybe less safe; therefore, you might want to fasten a lanyard to the smaller hole to reduce the chances of the pinched loop popping out of the smaller hole.

How to Lock Off a Effigy eight When Rappelling?

To lock off your device when rappelling, you should move the rappelling rope on your left hand effectually your body, allowing it to cross the uphill strand. Spike information technology tightly between the rope and the figure eight rappel device and keep the mechanism loaded.

Y'all've not tied the system, though the friction is sufficient to hold you provided you don't unload, reload or bounce on it. This will come in handy if you crave untying the rope beneath you or halt, and a typical ATC won't achieve this.

How to Set upward an 8 Block for Canyoneering?

The figure 8 rappel device is nigh suitable for rappelling when canyoneering (yes, canyoning and rappelling are frequently connected activities), precisely when you set it up a retrievable rappel equally an eight-block.

This technique establishes a stop within the rappelling rope on either side of the ballast that tin't feed through a quick link allowing you to lower yourself on one rope strand.

So, when you reach the bottom, you can haul the other rope strand, where you lot've fix up the eight-block. Over again, you should utilize the eight-block and lower using one rope strand, if doable, and then that in the event that the climber on the rappel has an emergency, yous can lower with the other rope strand and help them out.

Likewise, information technology's rather convenient for a rappel that doesn't need a long rope as yous only demand to get what you crave and leave the rest in the backpack. Every bit opposed to utilizing a figure-eight descender, you can make a large knot, though the force per unit area on the mechanism will make this knot highly challenging to undo.

Information technology is vital to understand how to set up an 8Block, and always ensure you're tied to the strand of rope without the eight-block. Here'due south how to set it upwardly:

Take a section of rope and feed information technology through the larger pigsty of the device and tie information technology across the neck.
Accept ane side of the rappelling rope and take a portion back via the large hole on the other side, winding it across the neck.
Pull the rappelling rope till the viii-block is tightly prepare against the anchor's quick link.
Loop the rappelling rope on the ballast's opposite side as the 8-block, and begin lowering.
Once you're on the ground, detach from the rappelling rope, and haul the other rope strand, making sure that the figure 8 descender doesn't get stuck on annihilation or hit you.

Tin You Belay Rock Climbers with a Figure eight?

Aye, you can belay rock climbers with a figure 8 device. The original belay devices, such every bit the Stitch plate, were extremely simple and easy to use. Withal, eventually, manufacturers have integrated several features to deal with the main issues with every device, making your belay experience that much more than convenient.

The figure viii belay device works the same way as a run up plate, utilizing the smaller hole as the slot to connect the carabiner. However, you shouldn't set up as you would when rappelling in this state of affairs, as it is unsafe due to the absence of friction and the risk of cantankerous-loading, as mentioned previously.

The smaller hole in the figure 8 device adds substantial friction though it facilitates smooth belaying. That said, belaying using a figure 8 descender is prophylactic, provided you set it up correctly.

How to Choose between Figure 8 vs. ATC Devices?

At that place are a few differences between the ATC and figure 8. For instance, figure 8 is universal; hence it volition fit all diameter ropes, and you lot can use information technology for climbing and rappelling. Moreover, you can conveniently adjust the friction or speed.

On the other hand, tubers come in handy when rappelling and climbing though yous cannot adjust the speed and are only compatible with ropes of less than 11 mm diameter. They are safer and smoother than figure 8 descenders since they generate more than friction and pose restricted cross-loading risks.

A figure eight descender is a masterpiece that will serve you in multiple situations. Regardless of the device y'all become for, utilize information technology as directed by the producer, and be rubber.

How Do You Use a Figure 8 Device When Rappelling?

You can use a figure 8 device together with a lockable carabiner and climbing harness to control your or another belayed individual's lowering when rappelling.

How Exercise I Rappel with the Rescue 8 Device?

To rappel with a rescue viii device, move the rappelling rope on your left hand effectually your trunk, assuasive information technology to cantankerous the uphill strand. Spike information technology tightly between the rope and the figure viii rappel device and keep the mechanism loaded.

Yous've not tied the organisation, though the friction is sufficient to agree y'all provided you don't unload, reload or bounce on it. This will come in handy if you require untying the rope beneath you or halt, and a typical ATC won't achieve this.

How Exercise You Lock a Figure viii Descender?

To lock a effigy eight descender, pull the loop and picture across the neck of the device. When double-strand rappelling, feed both rope strands via the larger pigsty and beyond the device's neck. Fasten the carabiner on the smaller hole and lock information technology. At that place you have it, everything you demand to know well-nigh using a figure viii rappel device.

Concluding thoughts on how to use a effigy 8 rappel device

Remember, rappelling is not something y'all want to test out for the first time on a rock face. Y'all first want to get the hang of these techniques and configurations in a controlled surround.

Recollect to e'er be safety and have things slowly. You do not want a climbing blow to occur due to the improper use of the figure eight descender.

If y'all are interested in belay glasses, read my comprehensive guide on the best belay glasses and how a belay device is made.

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